A new Pralus in Paris, more Praluline in Paris

Say the word "praluline" (pray-looo-lean) to someone, and they'll think you're doing tongue exercises. Say it to any one of the hundreds of people who buy the beautiful brioche every day, and they will swoon. Much like I have ever since this specialty made by the chocolatier Pralus became the object of my obsession a couple years ago.

It was over 50 years ago that the first soft, buttery pastries chockfull of house-made, rose sugar-coated Valencia almonds and Piedmont hazelnuts were created. It is squishy and crunchy, savory and sweet, a beautiful little bomb of flavors and textures that is irresistible and unique.

Each time I visit Paris, I look forward to devouring one. This is a problem as "one" could easily feed four. So I was going to let it slide this past visit, having sampled plenty of breakfast pastries and Parisian cakes. But wouldn't you know: Pralus opened a second boutique in the city, on rue Cler. Just a lovely stroll from the apartment where I was staying.

Needless to say, I needed no further excuse or prompting. I bought myself a six-euro, soul-satisfying treat on my last day. Took home the carefully wrapped present.

Sliced into it.

And sighed at the utter perfection of eating a praluline in Paris.

Chocolate in Chelsea

When I had a book signing at Three Tarts in Chelsea, I met a very sweet woman named Cathy Selin. Within weeks, I was staring at one of her darling pink boites du chocolat, which beckoned me to indulge.

Cathy launched her delicious company, Chocolate in Chelsea, in 2005. It started on a small scale and remains available through web order only. But after savoring nine of her fresh, delicious flavors, I can assure you, Chocolate in Chelsea is worth seeking out. I asked Cathy a few questions about chocolate-making and her responses reveal someone who’s completely devoted to the philosophy, craft and pleasure of creating something both artistic and artisanal.

You have a background in pastry and law. What drew you to chocolate-making?
The first impulse was to bring the wonderful flavor experience of the bonbons I had in France to the USA. I loved the rich, deep chocolate centers either on their own or infused with herbs and spices. It was such a contrast to the light, sugary, extract flavored centers of bonbons here in the states.

Then it became much more. It was working with chocolate itself that I loved. I loved that it took time, skill and mastery; you had to learn from masters and work at it. I respected the craft. A craft with a history that was here before me and would be after me. I respect that mass production and speed are desirable for some elements of our lives, but I need a place for slow, careful, time consuming creating, some things just need time. I also love that with time and attention you can bring something lovely and delicious to people… Few of us can afford to experience the best on a regular basis, but an outstanding piece of handmade chocolate can be enjoyed as a part of everyone's lifestyle.

What are your own favorite flavors?
I don't have favorites because I won't include a flavor until I just love it. I've worked on some for a couple years before getting it the way I wanted it—tea in particular has taken a long time. All of our flavors are obtained by fresh herb and spice infusions and some fruit purees. We don't add ground spices to chocolates as it changes the texture and lacks nuance.

How do you come up with your pairings?
It can begin with an idea of a flavor combination: lemon basil, fresh mint with lime, coconut cardamom, or ginger rose to name a few. It can also begin with the chocolate itself. High quality chocolate, such as the kind we use (Cathy uses Valrhona and Michel Cluizel Fair Trade chocolate) has its own flavor notes—red fruits, dried fruits, banana, herbal etc. Like coffee or wine it absorbs flavors from its surroundings. Whichever it begins with, these elements must all be harmonized. A certain couveture with red fruit notes is perfect for a raspberry puree; a more herbal tasting one may be a good foil for certain herb or tea. We don't just add a lot of different flavors into any chocolate, it’s about balance and harmony.

Since we are using fresh herbs and spices each batch much be tasted as it is made and each year some of the chocolate we use for a flavor combination must be reevaluated because a fine chocolate may have a stronger emphasis on a particular flavor note one year. For example, Michel Cluizel's remarkable couveture from plantation Los Ancones seems to be particularly reminiscent of green olive this year.

Any plans to open a storefront?
We don't have plans to open a storefront yet because of the expense. If we had the backing we probably would. We will probably be looking to have a chocolate counter in an appropriate store, bakery, or restaurant.

In the meantime, where are your chocolates being sold?
Presently our chocolates sold through our website at www.chocolateinchelsea.com. We ship, deliver and have pick up in Chelsea. Where to have our chocolates sold has been a big question for us and we are being very, very cautious. We have given it try first with Zingerman's Deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We chose them because there commitment to quality is becoming legendary. Their chocolate case is pristine and it has worked out well.

That said, we want to keep as much control as possible because the product is delicate. If the right situation comes up we are open.


Sounds like a brilliant opportunity if there ever was one, n’est-ce pas??

I highly recommend ordering yourself a box online. I’m not normally a big caramel person, but Cathy’s Salted Burnt Caramel was “juicy”—the caramel wasn’t too thick, it wasn’t too thin, and the balance between it the chocolate was just right. Delicious.

Similarly, I find many ganache bonbons a bit too thin. Cathy’s are wonderfully generous and rich and her quality ingredients and thoughtful pairings are evident in every bite.

These are my kind of chocolates.

Who does this kid think he is?

Just 24-years-old and Shaineal Shah is running his own chocolate boutique, Xocolatti.

He handcrafts his truffles up north—in Westchester County, where he’s from.

But he’s playing with the big wigs (he had the audacity to open not even two blocks away from Kee’s—which just so happen to be his mom’s favorite chocolates).

From elegant and classic…


… to playful and punchy…

...the truffle flavors are seductive and the designs, gorgeous.

So is the boutique. Working out of a closet-sized space, Shah cleverly designed the walls to incorporate les ballotins (the boxes).

I’ve been lamenting how thin the chocolate scene in New York is. Hopefully Shah will become a choco-superstar and others aren’t far behind…

Christopher Elbow

Unless you’re from Kansas City or a devout chocoholic, chances are you don’t know Christopher Elbow’s chocolates. Pity.

The young Midwesterner transitioned from pastry chef to full-time chocolatier when demand for his exquisite bonbons ballooned and he opened a flagship boutique in KC in 2007. A year later, he debuted in my old ‘hood, Hayes Valley, and I was all too happy to give him a try (after my scoop of Smitten ice cream, naturally).

Elbow is known for his well-balanced flavors, none of which are too standard. Whiskey walnut, brown butter and molasses, cinnamon and black tea... Even with the ridiculous amount of bonbons I’ve consumed these past few months, I haven’t seen such great flavors.


(So pretty, too.)



But ever a creature of habit, I chose a favorite standby: a creamy peanut butter patty.

Sure enough, it was creamy. Chocolaty. And deliciously dotted with sea salt.


Santa, don’t be afraid to stuff my stocking with more of these otherworldly samples…

Around the world in San Francisco

Cocoa Bella is a wonderful chocolatier. In case you don’t have the time or funds to travel the world for your chocolates, you can get them all in Cow Hollow.

From Italy and Switzerland…


…to my beloved French Michel Cluizel and Belgian Mary.



Stateside, Cocoa Bella pulls some of the best artisanal chocolatiers you’ve never heard of.

Like Christopher Elbow from Kansas City, Missouri and Norman Love from Florida.


My trip around the world began, logically enough, back in Brussels. Cocoa Bella is the only U.S. carrier of Mary’s chocolates and the vanilla cream cookie bonbon was fantastique.

Michael Recchuiti’s sesame bonbon was lovely with an unexpected lightness, while Lillie Belle Farm’s blue cheese truffle, which I’ve wanted to try for years, just isn’t for me (but if you love blue cheese, the marriage with chocolate is as smooth as you could hope for).


Now that my 12 bonbons have been demolished (oops)...

...I might have to go back to score more chocolate loot.

Doughboy is one week old!

I’ve long been a fan of Alison Nelson’s. But my respect went up a notch when she added to her chocolate franchise a West Village bakery. And named it Doughboy.

Open since last Sunday it’s a bright and cheerful spot on Hudson with a welcome selection of the homeiest treats.


Cookies, muffins and brownies…


…cupcakes galore…




…and breads and cakes…


Torn between a pumpkin cupcake (’tis the season!) and the last slice of the peanut butter poundcake, the lovelies behind the counter didn’t deliberate for even a second. The poundcake, they directed.

I imagined the moistness of poundcake and the moistness of peanut butter would mean a doubly rich and savory cake.

But in reality, it was ethereally light. Almost angel foodcake light. With mere hints of peanut butter.

Good. But I think I’ll be going back for the pumpkin cupcake.

My all-time favorite pralinés

On my recent chocolate tour of Brussels, one divine chocolatier almost escaped me: Laurent Gerbaud.

Thank goodness a lovely woman—a stylish spirit and fellow chocoholic—I met while shopping in one of Ixelle’s boutiques tipped me off to her favorite chocolatier in the city, sending me tout de suite to see what she was clamoring about.

Laurent Gerbaud has been practicing chocolate-making since 2001 but it was only two years ago that he opened his Ravenstein boutique. Like his sensibilities, it’s quiet, clean and modern, but warm and friendly. There’s an austerity to the shop as well as his chocolates, which he makes right there.


Laurent’s strength is taking the best ingredients in the world and letting them sing. “In terms of technique, there’s no secret,” he claims. I don’t necessarily agree. I’ve eaten plenty of poor chocolates, owing to technique. But I can’t argue with his belief that quality ingredients trumps almost everything. “Sometimes I find a good product, but it’s not good enough,” Laurent says.

Indeed. Figs from Izmir, ginger from Guilin, prunes from Corsica…



Cape pears, Persian crandberries, Japanese yuzu…



All simply, elegantly displayed. Admittedly, it can seem a bit boring after the bright lights and hot pink down on the Grand Sablon. But all you have to do is sample one of his chocolates and you fall deep in love.

I became obsessed with his Gare aux Noisettes, the house praliné.

Rich, savory, nutty and gritty, these little bonbons are a blend of roasted, caramelized Piedmont hazelnuts (again, the best in the world), roasted, salted cashews and just a bit of organic sugar, enrobed in a dark (or milk) chocolate shell.

Unlike other pralines where the nuts are ground very finely and consistently, there are larger bits of nuts in Laurent’s, creating a surprising, rich and deep experience. It’s like tasting real peanut butter after a lifetime of eating Jif.

It's like heaven.