October Tour: Saint-Germain’s rich and dreamy chocolate trail

In honor of the Salon du Chocolat (which I didn’t go to this year) this month’s walking tour takes you to some of Saint-Germain’s best chocolatiers. After all, you can toss an M&M in any direction in the sixth arrondisement and hit a world-class chocolatier—especially now that Patrick Roger has opened two new boutiques there.

Start at one of them, 91 rue de Rennes, and see what magical window displays the creative chocolate genius has whipped up. After admiring the fantasies and inhaling the smells, select a few of his unusual bonbons to sample—perhaps the Jamaica, made with ground Arabica coffee beans; the Jacarepagua, a blend or tart lemon curd and refreshing mint, or the Phantasme, made with oatmeal.

A fun and under-appreciated spot awaits just around the corner. The tiny and whimsical Jean-Charles Rochoux (16 rue d'Assas) is cluttered with chocolate figurines and sculptures—everything from fist-sized bunnies, squirrels and alligators to imposing nude busts. While Rochoux works in his basement kitchen, a lovely vendeuse, donning a lace glove, will pluck the pralines, nougats and truffles of your choice. Don’t miss his signature Maker’s Mark truffles.

A quick jaunt east, you’ll find Christian Constant (37 rue d’Assas), a small but slick shop filled with decadent cakes and fragrant teas. In a case tucked along the right-hand wall, you’ll find delicious chocolates with spicy and floral notes such as saffron and ylang ylang.

On your way back into the heart of the shopping district, skip the long line snaking out of Pierre Hermé (72 rue Bonaparte). While his macarons and cakes are to die for, his chocolates, try as I might, aren’t as good as the others. Instead, make your way to another Pierre—Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini (89 rue de Seine).

Marcolini’s boutique is as elegant and refined as a luxe jewelry store. Study the display cases to choose your bonbons of choice. My recommends: the Pavé de Tours Fondant, an uber thin milk chocolate, filled with sugared almonds, hazelnuts and puff pastry cake, and the Coeur Framboise, dark chocolate ganache with raspberry puree, enrobed in white chocolate.

Is there anything better than chocolate??

Mercy! Marcolini

Many chocolatiers, here and abroad, are all about experimenting with flavors as of late. Others are keeping it real.

I’m all for the outrageousness of chili or cardamom, the delicacy of violet or lavender, or the sweetness of fig or kumquats in my dark chocolate ganache. But after snacking on a couple bonbons from Pierre Marcolini, I’ll stick to the classics.

Like the Pavé de Tours Fondant: uber thin, filled with sugared almonds, hazelnuts and puff pastry cake, and coated with milk chocolate. A divinely crackly-creamy-melty experience. Mercy.

The Coeur Framboise, one of his most popular bonbons, is dark chocolate ganache with raspberry puree at its center, enrobed in white chocolate (the better to see the pretty red color). Just sweet and heavenly.

French training: Pierre Marcolini

On my last visit to Paris (which was wonderful), I went to no fewer than eight chocolatiers—about one a day. None blew me away more than Pierre Marcolini.

I was blown away again recently when someone told me there’s a Marcolini outpost on Park Ave. I had no idea. Where have I been?

In the spirit of training for my upcoming Parisian binge, I made my way to midtown. And yet, in an impressive display of restraint, I sampled only three.

Trianon Fondant: A creamy caramel ganache with crunchy nougatine, enrobed in dark chocolate.

Torsade: Milk chocolate Giandya filled with sugared almonds and nougatine chips: savory, smooth and crunchy.

Palet Or Fondant: A super rich buttery ganache with Tahitian vanilla inside a dark chocolate shell.

Mon dieu. They're all so buttery, rich, fresh and sublime. It was a relief to know the chocolates are as exquisite as they are in Paris, even though the New York boutique is a little shabby. In Paris, the bonbons are displayed with the same care and staging as jewels. You'd expect no less on Park Avenue. But here, the boutique's atmosphere belies the preciousness of these chocolates. Seriously, chocolates do not get much better than this. Pierre Marcolini, je vous reve.

485 Park Avenue between 58th and 59th
212.755.5150