Monday, June 23, 2008

French training: Pierre Marcolini

On my last visit to Paris (which was wonderful), I went to no fewer than eight chocolatiers—about one a day. None blew me away more than Pierre Marcolini.

I was blown away again recently when someone told me there’s a Marcolini outpost on Park Ave. I had no idea. Where have I been?

In the spirit of training for my upcoming Parisian binge, I made my way to midtown. And yet, in an impressive display of restraint, I sampled only three.

Trianon Fondant: A creamy caramel ganache with crunchy nougatine, enrobed in dark chocolate.

Torsade: Milk chocolate Giandya filled with sugared almonds and nougatine chips: savory, smooth and crunchy.

Palet Or Fondant: A super rich buttery ganache with Tahitian vanilla inside a dark chocolate shell.

Mon dieu. They're all so buttery, rich, fresh and sublime. It was a relief to know the chocolates are as exquisite as they are in Paris, even though the New York boutique is a little shabby. In Paris, the bonbons are displayed with the same care and staging as jewels. You'd expect no less on Park Avenue. But here, the boutique's atmosphere belies the preciousness of these chocolates. Seriously, chocolates do not get much better than this. Pierre Marcolini, je vous reve.

485 Park Avenue between 58th and 59th

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