Paris-Brest, Paris-New York, Always Divine

Phew. I got to indulge in Jacques Genin's glorious Paris-Brest just a month before he put the kibosh on making pastries. So enamored was I, I also went for Philippe Conticini’s award-winning Brest. Both were divine: rings of choux pastry, piped full of rich hazelnut pastry cream. Classically French, undeniably indulgent.

So why stop now? It may be a new year and a different city, but that’s no reason not to indulge in the French classic when the opportunity presents itself.

Not that the Paris-Brest readily presents itself in New York. Macarons are ubiquitous. Baba Rhum is creeping onto menus around town. The Paris-Brest is more elusive.

But when Dominique Ansel opened his Soho bakery a little over a year ago, this was the pastry that garnered him a lot of attention. (That and his oh-so-sweet-sticky-buttery-perfect Kouign Amann).

Ansel, inspired by his go-to snack when he first came to the city—none other than a Snickers bar—replaced the hazelnut cream with rich dark chocolate and savory peanut butter that meld beautifully between the softly crunchy rings of pastry.

He also miniaturized it—perhaps the only dessert that is smaller here in America than in France.

And showing the French flair for artistry, dots of peanut butter and candied nuts decorate the salted caramel glacage on top. 

It's reassuring to know this French beauty is so close here in New York.

Wee & sweet finale at Lincoln

Saturday was one of those "I love New York" days. Unseasonably warm. The Union Square greenmarket was filled with pumpkins, sunflowers, and bees buzzing around the sweet-smelling Concord grapes. I had a date with a good friend to see the Palm d'Or-winning French film, Amour, at the New York Film Festival. And we met for a pre-matinee brunch at Lincoln.

  

Elegant but leisurely, it was one of the best restaurant experiences I've had in a long time. The glass walls brought the energy from Lincoln Center inside, though it remained impossibly serene. Every detail, from the pour of the olive oil to the shape of the sugar spoon to the shavings of ricotta, was exquisite. And the petit plate of treats—caramels, truffles, biscotti and butter cookies—that came at the end of the meal was all I needed to make me a very happy girl.

Lincoln

142 West 65th Street

Chocolate in Chelsea

When I had a book signing at Three Tarts in Chelsea, I met a very sweet woman named Cathy Selin. Within weeks, I was staring at one of her darling pink boites du chocolat, which beckoned me to indulge.

Cathy launched her delicious company, Chocolate in Chelsea, in 2005. It started on a small scale and remains available through web order only. But after savoring nine of her fresh, delicious flavors, I can assure you, Chocolate in Chelsea is worth seeking out. I asked Cathy a few questions about chocolate-making and her responses reveal someone who’s completely devoted to the philosophy, craft and pleasure of creating something both artistic and artisanal.

You have a background in pastry and law. What drew you to chocolate-making?
The first impulse was to bring the wonderful flavor experience of the bonbons I had in France to the USA. I loved the rich, deep chocolate centers either on their own or infused with herbs and spices. It was such a contrast to the light, sugary, extract flavored centers of bonbons here in the states.

Then it became much more. It was working with chocolate itself that I loved. I loved that it took time, skill and mastery; you had to learn from masters and work at it. I respected the craft. A craft with a history that was here before me and would be after me. I respect that mass production and speed are desirable for some elements of our lives, but I need a place for slow, careful, time consuming creating, some things just need time. I also love that with time and attention you can bring something lovely and delicious to people… Few of us can afford to experience the best on a regular basis, but an outstanding piece of handmade chocolate can be enjoyed as a part of everyone's lifestyle.

What are your own favorite flavors?
I don't have favorites because I won't include a flavor until I just love it. I've worked on some for a couple years before getting it the way I wanted it—tea in particular has taken a long time. All of our flavors are obtained by fresh herb and spice infusions and some fruit purees. We don't add ground spices to chocolates as it changes the texture and lacks nuance.

How do you come up with your pairings?
It can begin with an idea of a flavor combination: lemon basil, fresh mint with lime, coconut cardamom, or ginger rose to name a few. It can also begin with the chocolate itself. High quality chocolate, such as the kind we use (Cathy uses Valrhona and Michel Cluizel Fair Trade chocolate) has its own flavor notes—red fruits, dried fruits, banana, herbal etc. Like coffee or wine it absorbs flavors from its surroundings. Whichever it begins with, these elements must all be harmonized. A certain couveture with red fruit notes is perfect for a raspberry puree; a more herbal tasting one may be a good foil for certain herb or tea. We don't just add a lot of different flavors into any chocolate, it’s about balance and harmony.

Since we are using fresh herbs and spices each batch much be tasted as it is made and each year some of the chocolate we use for a flavor combination must be reevaluated because a fine chocolate may have a stronger emphasis on a particular flavor note one year. For example, Michel Cluizel's remarkable couveture from plantation Los Ancones seems to be particularly reminiscent of green olive this year.

Any plans to open a storefront?
We don't have plans to open a storefront yet because of the expense. If we had the backing we probably would. We will probably be looking to have a chocolate counter in an appropriate store, bakery, or restaurant.

In the meantime, where are your chocolates being sold?
Presently our chocolates sold through our website at www.chocolateinchelsea.com. We ship, deliver and have pick up in Chelsea. Where to have our chocolates sold has been a big question for us and we are being very, very cautious. We have given it try first with Zingerman's Deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We chose them because there commitment to quality is becoming legendary. Their chocolate case is pristine and it has worked out well.

That said, we want to keep as much control as possible because the product is delicate. If the right situation comes up we are open.


Sounds like a brilliant opportunity if there ever was one, n’est-ce pas??

I highly recommend ordering yourself a box online. I’m not normally a big caramel person, but Cathy’s Salted Burnt Caramel was “juicy”—the caramel wasn’t too thick, it wasn’t too thin, and the balance between it the chocolate was just right. Delicious.

Similarly, I find many ganache bonbons a bit too thin. Cathy’s are wonderfully generous and rich and her quality ingredients and thoughtful pairings are evident in every bite.

These are my kind of chocolates.

Valentine’s at Bespoke Chocolates

Valentine’s is often for the lucky… the lucky in love.

So tempt the hands of time, seduce your true love and express your creativity and deepest, most burning emotions at Bespoke Chocolates.

Rachel and Gil are creating a limited number of hand-molded heart-shaped dark chocolate boxes (advanced orders, a must!), to be filled with ten of their most amazing artisanal bonbons (think: French milk chocolate, strawberry balsamic, passionfruit…) and your personalized message, written in on a red card in gold ink (love, desire, passion, sex, marriage??).

The boutique’s open extended hours this weekend so even if you haven’t been slayed by Cupid’s arrow, you can pick up some pretzel-covered sea-salted caramels or other divine hand-crafted chocolates.

Photo by Saleena Fortunato

Valentine’s at Recchuiti Confections

There are certain chocolatiers who blow you away with their skill and creativity. I was surrounded by them in Paris, but I dare say they are fewer and far between in the states. Michael Recchiuti is definitely one of them.

I’ve been a fan of his since discovering him at San Francisco’s Ferry Building. Known especially for his dark chocolate fleur de sel caramels and his vanilla bean s’mores, Michael is brilliant when it comes to creating flavor pairings that wow. And his Valentine’s box contains a bunch of them…

...rose caramel, lavender vanilla, burnt caramel, lemon verbena, bergamot tea, tarragon grapefruit, sesame nougat and nine others that will pierce you right through the heart.

Dessert Blitz: rice pudding that will, I swear, convert you

Soon, I will be back in New York. I, of course, have mixed feelings about this. But one thing is for sure: I still have a lot of sweets to get through.

If you’re like me, rice pudding isn’t exactly the dessert of dreams. It doesn’t get my heart racing or make my stomach do cartwheels. But that started changing when Bennie ordered the rice pudding at Café Constant. It was exquisite. And then on a more recent visit to Chez l’Ami Jean, my esteem for rice pudding as one of the best all-around dessert options was solidified.

Of course everything at Chez l’Ami Jean is a little bigger and more decadent so the rice pudding was not a modest little boule. In fact, one serving—what you’re looking at—could easily feed a family of four.

Especially with the whipped salted caramel cream and candied granola it’s served with.



Tell me if there’s anything you want to sample vicariously through me… it would be a honor. And my pleasure.

Dessert Blitz: Caramel Soufflé

In a few weeks' time, I will be back in New York. I, of course, have mixed feelings about this. But one thing is for sure: I have a lot of sweets to get through. Today…

Desserts at l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

The other day, I had the sumptuous pleasure of lunching at the new l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. After seeing a neighbor’s golden caramel soufflé, I had to order dessert.

And after I finished dessert, pastry chef Francois Benot, shared another little creation with me: granita with banana, passionfruit and rum, topped with cream.

Holiday decadence, to be sure.

Tell me if there’s anything you want to sample vicariously through me… it would be a honor. And my pleasure.

Dessert Blitz: chocolate meets caramel

In one month’s time, I will be back in New York. I, of course, have mixed feelings about this. But one thing is for sure: I have a lot of sweets to get through. Today…

The chocolate caramel tart from CocoCook.

The sticky, chocolaty sweet goodness of this tart shows that a spot normally known for its sale treats should not be overlooked for dessert.

Tell me if there’s anything you want to sample vicariously through me… it would be a honor. And my pleasure.

Dessert at Gramercy Tavern

I was just about to state the obvious: that Gramercy Tavern has phenomenal desserts.

But then again, the Danny Meyer landmark is renowned for its cocktails, its environment, its friendliness, its quality, and for its very affordable soup and sandwich combo. What’s not to love about this restaurant?

After indulging in all the aforementioned, Bennie and I didn’t need dessert, but, being who we are, we decided to split one thing, my choice. Always a sucker for bread pudding, I chose the butterscotch bread pudding. Paired with its sweet-tangy pear sorbet, topped with a buttercrunch disc, it was perfection.



But, hey, our kind waitress asked, you don’t mind if we give you another dessert, do you?? Just because? Here, chocolate pudding with a thick layer of salted caramel and toasted brioche croutons.



Giant miam.

I still dream about Buonocore gelato

Close your eyes and imagine that delicious smell of waffles being made. In this case, a waffle cone. Breathe in, deeply. Mmmmm…

That’s exactly what hit me in the face as I walked down via Vittorio Emanuele in Capri a couple weeks back. Obviously I had no choice but to stop at Buonocre gelateria, the source of that amazing smell and a full range of creamy, indulgent gelato flavors. From which I chose stracciatella and tiramisu.

And when they placed my cone in my hand?

It was still warm. Imagine, a warm waffle cone with cool, creamy, beyond-amazing gelato. The stuff that dreams are made of.
The next day I went back and tried toasted almond and chocolette (a chocolate and hazelnut combo—every bit as amazing as it sounds, though the toasted almond smoked it).

And the day after that, I sampled gianduja and cherry vanilla.

It was with such memories in my head that I dragged Jo to Caramella, a petit ice cream shop on rue des Martyrs that I’ve always wanted to go to.

Maybe it’s unfair to have finally visited this “modern ice creamery” when Buonocore was still tickling my taste buds. For it was good, but not great. I had salted caramel and noissette—two flavors that never fail to make me shimmy in appreciation. But it just wasn’t as rich or creamy or mind-blowing as the Italian gelato.

Which begs the standard issue question: what is the difference between ice cream and gelato??

For one thing, the machines that make gelato churn slower so there is less air pumped in the mixture. Thus its denser, creamier, more heavenly texture.

And the recipes usually include more egg yolks, more milk and less cream… so gelato, incredibly, has fewer calories than ice cream.

So until I find a suitable gelato fix in Paris, my daily cono piccolo in Capri still has me dreaming.

47 rue Martyrs

Macarons on my mind

I’m not obsessed. Really. But Sylvia had told me about Acide, a little-known macaron patisserie in the 17eme. And that the chef patissier, Jonathan Biot, was claiming his macarons were every bit as good as Ladurée and Pierre Hermé’s. And that his flavors were wacky and wonderful and begging to be tried. What’s a Sweet Freak to do? Of course I had to check it out.

It’s a sleek little spot in the darling Bagatelle neighborhood. And aside from a select few other desserts, it’s all macarons.

Indeed, in wacky flavors and in luscious Technicolor.

When you look down on them, it’s like it’s raining macarons.


Are they as good as the masters?

Chocolat noir. Rich and chocolaty, just the right side of fudgy.

Bubble gum. Hubba bubba, I wanna blow a bubble!

Salted caramel. Always a classic.

Strawberry and pepper. Surprisingly subtle.

Oui, they're pretty damn good.

When you go and taste for yourself, be sure to also peek into M. Biot’s high-tech kitchen in the back of the boutique. And maybe take one of his Sunday afternoon classes.

But, I’m not. Because I’m not obsessed. Really.

72 rue Legendre, 17eme

Tarte Chocolat Caramel

Ever since CocoCook opened last fall, I’ve wanted to try it. But more for its savory dishes that were said to be as good as any gourmet New York take-out joint. With our sunny afternoon picnic lunch of Cornet Vegetariens in hand, it gave Bennie and I the perfect excuse to pop in and pick up dessert. We happened to be walking by, after all.

From the black sesame panacotta and carrot cake and triple lemon cake and chocolat fondant, we chose well.

One slice of chocolate caramel tarte, divided by two. Half the guilt. Total pleasure.

Down to the little graham cracker-crumbly bits from the deliciously moist crust.

Spot on cupcakes and dessert

I flew 3600 miles for one of Pichet’s cupcakes. And was richly rewarded with cheesecake, chocolate ganache and semifreddo.

I was crushed when Batch and p*ong closed. Crushed. My favorite cupcake in the world, the carrot salted caramel cupcake, gone. Ovaltine, lychee and huckleberry surprises on the dessert menu, no more.

But say hallelujah. Pichet opened a new dessert bar in the East Village, Spot, and I was so happy to catch him there when I was home in New York.

I dragged Bennie along with me; my perfect partner in crime. As soon as we sunk our teeth into the cupcakes, he said, “Forget the flavors—the cupcake itself is so much better than a Magnolia cupcake.”
Of course he’s right. We sampled the mocha maldon salt caramel and the vanilla caramel Vietnamese coffee cupcakes (along with the coconut macaroon nutella almond bar, just for kicks. Anything with Nutella is a must-try).


The cake was so moist, the flavors were potent and the frosting was super generous. Pichet’s cupcakes never disappoint.

But he wouldn’t let it rest there; he sent out other goodies to try.

The soft cheesecake, elegantly spilling out of a highball, with huckleberry compote, crushed walnuts and lemon foam.


The white miso semifreddo, a surprising, sweet-savory plate of moist cake, flavorful olive oil, raspberry sorbet and almonds.

And lastly, the uber rich chocolate ganache cake, served with green tea ice cream, crackly caramel crunches and Pichet’s patented malted chocolate (also on the cupcake) bits.

Maybe I’ll have to fly back again for the imminent opening of Village Tart.