A new Pralus in Paris, more Praluline in Paris

Say the word "praluline" (pray-looo-lean) to someone, and they'll think you're doing tongue exercises. Say it to any one of the hundreds of people who buy the beautiful brioche every day, and they will swoon. Much like I have ever since this specialty made by the chocolatier Pralus became the object of my obsession a couple years ago.

It was over 50 years ago that the first soft, buttery pastries chockfull of house-made, rose sugar-coated Valencia almonds and Piedmont hazelnuts were created. It is squishy and crunchy, savory and sweet, a beautiful little bomb of flavors and textures that is irresistible and unique.

Each time I visit Paris, I look forward to devouring one. This is a problem as "one" could easily feed four. So I was going to let it slide this past visit, having sampled plenty of breakfast pastries and Parisian cakes. But wouldn't you know: Pralus opened a second boutique in the city, on rue Cler. Just a lovely stroll from the apartment where I was staying.

Needless to say, I needed no further excuse or prompting. I bought myself a six-euro, soul-satisfying treat on my last day. Took home the carefully wrapped present.

Sliced into it.

And sighed at the utter perfection of eating a praluline in Paris.

The best brests in Paris

It is said that Philippe Conticini makes the best Paris-Brest in Paris. Indeed, a visit to La Patisserie des Reves reveals a master has been at work.

But what about Jacques Genin? His Brests are nothing to sneeze at.

It was essential to plunge into this delicious debate. A Paris-Brest is a rare treat. I've had only a handful in my life. Having two in one week was pure hedonism.

Conticini's creation is six petite pieces of choux pastry strong together like an exquisite necklace of pearls. Except inside each puff is a thick and rich, decadent crème pralinèe. In other words: heaven.

Jacques Genin takes a little more liberty with his crème pralinèe (for some, bigger is better, n'est-ce pas?) His pastry is a more traditional ring, dusted with hazelnuts.

Everyone has their own preferences and predilections. I would go for either man's brest. Conticini's is compact, refined, densely powerful. Genin's is light and airy, over the top wonderful. Both are wonderful specimens.

Breakfast in Paris

There's nothing more promising than a little parcel expertly wrapped up like this:

And what lies inside... heaven...

So wonderful I had to do it again.

Pineapple upside down muffin

Look at that nice big slice of pineapple on top.

But don't forget to check the bottom.

I keep dreaming about this beauty from Grey Dog.

242 West 16th Street

New York's Chocolate Show

I’ve been to the Chocolate Show in past years. In Paris, it was chocolate heaven. My memory of New York—a good 6-7 years ago—is one of mayhem. Crazy crowds. But my visit today, the first of the three-day expo, was blissfully jostle-free. So I got to ogle lots of chocolate.

And say hello to Rhonda of Roni-Sue, who has added new flavors to her luscious cocktail collection.

Meet Mott Green, founder of my new obsession, The Grenada Chocolate Company.

My favorite discovery of the day was Salt of the Earth Bakery.

Their cookies and brownies are wonderfully sweet-salty-chewy blends of the best ingredients.

France was well represented, too, with Pralus (but sadly, no Praluline) and LAC.

Britain was present with Prestat, whose fancy packaging pretty much blew everyone else’s out of the water.

I’ve always wanted to try John &Kira’s, a Philadelphia chocolatier, and got my delicious opportunity with a strawberry cream bonbon.

And there were a few local newbies, like Tache.

Overall, there were no huge surprises in the innovation department. There are definitely a lot of caramel options out there. And boozy truffles. And peanut butter and, of course, bacon are as popular as ever.

When you go this weekend (it’s Saturday and Sunday at the Metropolitan Pavilion on 18^th Street), be sure to bring coats to donate—the Show has partnered with New York Cares to help support the coat drive to help Hurricane Sandy victims.

Breakfast at Cookshop

When two fellow Sweet Freaks invite you to meet for a pastry breakfast at which the talented pastry chef will be present, what do you do?

Duh.

 

Needless to say, I was all too thrilled to join Niko and Kathy recently for a casual breakfast at Cookshop, at which Chef Amanda Cook talked to us about the development of the restaurant’s breakfast and pastry services. Since April, they’ve been serving up fresh baked muffins, scones, cakes and other pastries—including the most divine pain au chocolat I’ve had since Paris.

Much more chocolaty than anything you’d find là-bas, but with about the same amount of butter (that is, a lot), it was nothing short of heavenly. And Chef Cook graciously offered to start serving them with Kleenex as I told her it made me want to weep.

On the American front, she’s just as adept. A butternut squash chocolate chip muffin?? Genius.

Deliciously moist and spongy, it’s her favorite baked good with good reason.

And though I too loved it, and the blueberry muffin and Have a Nice Day muffin...

... I was especially crazy for the cookies.

Chocolate chip cookies that are gritty with sugar and butter and wonderfully laden with boulders of chocolate. And the peanut butter cookies: also magically moist, both savory and sugary.

The daily offerings, which come out of the oven right before the restaurant opens at 7:30 and are served supremely fresh until 11, change daily. So I think Niko, Kathy and I are going to have to return to sample some more.

Cookshop
156 10th Avenue