Saturday, June 07, 2008
‘Tis the season
Summer’s here. We’ve barely eased into June and we have the heat, the humidity, and the haze that turn the city a milky grey color.
Time for ice cream. Scratch that — gelato. Gelato from a genius.
Jon Snyder opened il Laboratorio del Gelato, a clean, white sliver of a space, in 2002. This was 19 years after he started Ciao Bella, the city’s other go-to gelato store, which he subsequently sold in ’89. None of this is terribly important or relevant except it goes to show that this guy loves gelato, loves experimenting with flavors (there are 75), and creates something that every Sweet Freak loves.
The toasted sesame gelato brings a smoky, savoriness to the sweet base of cream and sugar. The buttermilk has that tangy, sour flavor of… buttermilk. Delicate floral notes and small flecks of lavender make the honey lavender taste light and refreshing. And the milk chocolate is, omigodness, the most satisfying combination of sweet and rich and cold and creamy.
Don’t wait to go there for dessert. The shop closes at 7pm. And when you do go, please try the rose petal, black mission fig, or olive oil for me.
95 Orchard St between Broome and Delancey