Insatiable at Boulangerie Julien

Bennie’s extended stay meant we got to squeeze in another breakfast run to
Boulangerie Julien. Just what my ass needed.

But was it worth it? Bien sur.

We opted for the Pattes d’Ours, which, in my previous experience at Arnaud Delmontal, was filled with almond paste. Not this one.

Chocolate and pear—a divine combo if ever there was one—plus a little pastry cream just to make sure it was ridiculously delicious.

Just to make sure we left nothing but crumbs.

Tarte Chocolat Caramel

Ever since CocoCook opened last fall, I’ve wanted to try it. But more for its savory dishes that were said to be as good as any gourmet New York take-out joint. With our sunny afternoon picnic lunch of Cornet Vegetariens in hand, it gave Bennie and I the perfect excuse to pop in and pick up dessert. We happened to be walking by, after all.

From the black sesame panacotta and carrot cake and triple lemon cake and chocolat fondant, we chose well.

One slice of chocolate caramel tarte, divided by two. Half the guilt. Total pleasure.

Down to the little graham cracker-crumbly bits from the deliciously moist crust.

How can something be this good?

Boulangerie Julien has one of the best baguettes in town. But as good as they are—and trust me, they are incredible—I can’t say they outshine the viennoiseries.

Bennie, a trusted New York sweets companion, has a good eye. Now stuck here in Paris (and aren’t there worse places to be stranded??) he noticed Boulangerie Julien on his first day and I dutifully accompanied him to pick something up for breakfast. We opted for a classic almond croissant.

Fresh and flaky, slightly chewy and caramelized at the edges, dusted with powdered sugar and almond slivers and, best of all, pumped full of almond paste. Having something this delicious for breakfast on a warm spring day is one of the greatest pleasures in life.

The Parisian cupcake brigade continues

It’s clear. The Parisians have a devotion to macarons that is akin to New Yorkers’ obsession (albeit waning) with cupcakes. Ironically—or inevitably, I don’t know which—New Yorkers are now enamored by macarons, while cupcakes are infiltrating Paris.

The latest proof: Miss Cupcake, a two-week old cupcake cafe tucked into a little corner of Montmartre.

The view from the outside persuaded me to go inside.

Which is where baker Laurence Kreitmann, and her crew were busy frosting and decorating the next batch of goodness.

Mocha, chocolate, strawberry and more…



They have a wonderful homemade quality to them. They’re professional, but not perfect, topped with everything from jelly beans to berries to sprinkles, some puffing out of their paper carriers, others politely staying inside.

Now the question becomes, for the rest of my time in Paris, where do I invest my sweet calories: cupcakes, or macarons?

22, rue la Vieuville, 18eme

Easter mice

From the master chocolatier/sculpture Patrick Roger.


I prefer to believe these are mice, not rats.

Stohrer prepares for Paques

And you thought the U.S. got a little crazy with candy holidays?

All over the city, chocolatiers and patisseries are creating giant eggs, bunnies and baskets and setting up mini-shops to peddle their Easter goods.

Not that I'm complaining.