The underwhelming chocolate chunk

More and more, I’m realizing the start-up bakeries (Amai, Kumquat, Nine Cakes) are where it’s at. Their small batches, artisinal ingredients, appetite for experimentation and the exquisite treats that, combined, these things yield are nothing short of sublime.

But Bouchon is supposed to be sublime, too. And I figured with the luck I had at Petrossian, the chocolate chunk cookie from Keller’s boulangerie-inspired bakery would also be pretty incredible (like his bouchon).

I have to say, it was unremarkable.


What it did have was an awesome chocolate to batter ratio. And a titch of saltiness, which was nice. But it could use more butter and brown sugar to make it doughier, greasier, chewier and—more sublime.